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Generation Green

  • Autumn Storm Tips

    Autumn Storm Tips

    By KOIN Local 6 Meteorologist Tim Joyce.

     

                With soaking rains for Monday’s morning commute it’s a good time to remind people that the fall rains are some of the most dangerous kind of rain we get here in the Pacific Northwest.

                As we get further into fall our shorter days mean lower visibility, fall leaves can be incredibly slick on area roadways; clogged storm drains can mean flooded streets without warning.

                There are some things to remember as you head out on these fall and winter days.

                -Be visible. For cars that means turn your headlights on. For pedestrians and bicyclists, that means wearing reflective materials.

                -Avoid standing water. You never know exactly how deep the water can be and what can lie underneath. In certain situations the road may have washed away. It only takes a few inches of moving water to float a car.

                -Recognize barricades. If cities or county workers block off a street due to a slide or lots of standing water—don’t go around it. There could be workers that are trying to clear the roadway or there could be no place to turn around ahead.

                -Avoid hydroplaning. When your car’s tires lose contact with the road, you lose control. Take your foot off the gas instead of breaking. To prevent hydroplaning in advance, follow the car in front of you in their tracks. More of your wheels will make contact with the road.

                -Watch the weather reports. Winter and fall storms coming in off the Pacific can change and intensify sometimes pretty unpredictably. This means it’s important to keep it tuned to KOIN Local 6—and you can also subscribe to our Facebook and Twitter pages—and we’ll let you know immediately if something changes.

                -Be prepared. At home and in your car—you’ll want some important supplies. At the minimum: some warm weather clothes, some drinking water, an umbrella, a flashlight with fully charged batteries, a few snacks—all in a waterproof container. You never know when you’ll need it.

                -Be a good samaritan. There are only a few leaf pickups in the 17 leaf districts in Portland this year. That means a lot of leaves can litter the street and clog the gutter before a city crew can get to it. There are thousands of storm drains in the city, too. So, take over the one near your house. With a rake or shovel, clear it out if it’s clogged. Don’t use your hands, there might be sharp or dangerous debris in there. It takes a few minutes and you help yourself and your neighbors.

     

  • October: Garden Calendar

    By Tim Joyce, KOIN Local 6 Environmental Reporter

    October is a time to reflect. It is the time of the harvest when the changing of the seasons becomes really noticeable with the shorter days and a brisk-ness in the air. The threat of frost keeps us on our toes as many of us, including myself, try to push the harvest just a little bit longer.

    While this time of year does mean an ending of the summer vegetable season—it is actually a beginning of sorts. It is the beginning of our rainy season and it makes it an incredibly good time to plant certain flowers, trees and shrubs. I know I lost some blueberry bushes I planted in the spring during our summer’s hot spells. Planting in the fall has many advantages since the water is free and many things are on sale at area nurseries.

    This is the calendar from the Oregon State University Extension Service about what can/should be done in the month of October. It should be noted that OSU encourages research based sustainable gardening practices. Always identify and monitor problems before acting. First consider cultural controls; then physical, biological, and chemical controls (which include insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, botanical insecticides, organic and synthetic pesticides). And most paramount to this philosophy: always consider the least toxic approach first.

    All recommendations in this calendar are not necessarily applicable to all areas of Oregon. For more information, contact your local office of the OSU Extension Service.
    Planning
     If needed, improve soil drainage needs of lawns before rain begins.

    Maintenance and Clean Up
     Drain or blow out your irrigation system, insulate valve mechanisms, in preparation of winter.
     Recycle disease-free plant material and kitchen vegetable and fruit scraps into compost. Don’t compost diseased plants unless you are using the "hot compost" method (120° to 150°F).
     Use newspaper or cardboard covered by mulch to discourage winter and spring annual weeds or remove a lawn area for conversion to garden beds. For conversion, work in the paper and mulch as organic matter once the lawn grass has died.
     Clean and paint greenhouses and cold frames for plant storage and winter growth.
     Harvest sunflower heads; use seed for birdseed or roast for personal use.
     Dig and store potatoes; keep in darkness, moderate humidity, temperature about 40°F. Discard unused potatoes if they sprout. Don’t use as seed potatoes for next year.
     Harvest and immediately dry filberts and walnuts; dry at 95° to 100°F.
     Ripen green tomatoes indoors. Check often and discard rotting fruit.
     Harvest and store apples; keep at about 40°F, moderate humidity.
     Place mulch over roots of roses, azaleas, rhododendrons and berries for winter protection.
     Trim or stake bushy herbaceous perennials to prevent wind damage.
     To suppress future pest problems, clean up annual flower beds by removing diseased plant materials, overwintering areas for insect pests; mulch with manure or garden compost to feed the soil and suppress weeds.
     Cover asparagus and rhubarb beds with a mulch of manure or compost.
     Clean, sharpen and oil tools and equipment before storing for winter.
     Store garden supplies and fertilizers in a safe, dry place out of reach of children.
     Prune out dead fruiting canes in raspberries.
     Western Oregon: Train and prune primocanes of raspberry
     Western Oregon: Harvest squash and pumpkins; keep in dry area at 55° to 60°F.
     Western Oregon: If necessary (as indicated by soil test results) and if weather permits, spade organic material and lime into garden soil.
     Central/eastern Oregon: Prune evergreens.

    Planting/Propagation
     Dig and divide rhubarb. (Should be done about every 4 years.)
     Plant garlic for harvesting next summer.
     Propagate chrysanthemums, fuchsias, geraniums by stem cuttings.
     Save seeds from the vegetable and flower garden. Dry, date, label, and store in a cool and dry location.
     Plant ground covers and shrubs.
     Dig and store geraniums, tuberous begonias, dahlias, gladiolas.
     Pot and store tulips and daffodils to force into early bloom, indoors, in December and January.

    Pest Monitoring and Management
     Monitor landscape plants for problems. Don’t treat unless a problem is identified.
     Remove and dispose of windfall apples that might be harboring apple maggot or codling moth larvae.
     Rake and destroy diseased leaves (apple, cherry, rose, etc.), or hot compost diseased leaves.
     Spray apple and stone fruit trees at leaf fall to prevent various fungal and bacterial diseases. Obtain a copy of Managing Diseases and Insects in Home Orchards (EC 631) from your local Extension office.
     If moles and gophers are a problem, consider traps.
     Western Oregon: Control fall-germinating lawn weeds while they are small. Hand weeding and weeding tools are particularly effective at this stage.

    Houseplants and Indoor Gardening
     Early October: Reduce water, place in cool area (50-550F) and increase time in shade or darkness (12-14 hours) to force Christmas cactus to bloom in late December.
     Place hanging pots of fuchsias where they won't freeze. Don't cut back until spring.
     Western Oregon: Check/treat houseplants for disease and insects before bringing indoors.
    All recommendations in this calendar are not necessarily applicable to all areas of Oregon. For more information, contact your local office of the OSU Extension Service.
    To find the OSU extension service office nearest you, click on the following link: http://extension.oregonstate.edu/locations.php


     

  • Gardening calendar: September

    By Tim Joyce, KOIN Local 6 Environmental Reporter and OSU Master Gardener

    September is the time of harvest. I try to eat out less—and make myself stay home to make delicious meals right out of the garden. There’s still summer heat to contend with—but the cool mornings upon us you can tell that change is in the air.

    The average high temperature for Portland on September 1st is 78 degrees. By September 30th- the average high is 70. We also lose about 3-4 minutes of daylight every day this month—and by month’s end, we’ll have lost about an hour and a half of daylight. So, September is a time to enjoy the harvest and we can wait until next month to assess and re-assess the plan for next year.

    This is the calendar from the Oregon State University Extension Service about what can/should be done in the month of May. It should be noted that OSU encourages research based sustainable gardening practices. Always identify and monitor problems before acting.

    First consider cultural controls; then physical, biological, and chemical controls (which include insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, botanical insecticides, organic and synthetic pesticides). And most paramount to this philosophy: always consider the least toxic approach first.
    All recommendations in this calendar are not necessarily applicable to all areas of Oregon.

    For more information, contact your local office of the OSU Extension Service.

     Apply parasitic nematodes to soil beneath rhododendrons and azaleas that show root weevil damage (notched leaves).
     Harvest winter squash when the "ground spot" changes from white to a cream or gold color.
     Plant lawns until October 15 in western Oregon.
     Plant or transplant woody ornamentals and mature herbaceous perennials.
     Plant garden cover crops as garden is harvested. Spread manure or compost over unplanted garden areas.
     Pick and store winter squash; mulch carrot, parsnip, and beet rows for winter harvesting.
     Spray holly for leaf and twig blight, blueberries for stem canker as needed.
     Reduce water on trees, shrubs, and vines east of Cascades to harden them off for winter.
     Plant daffodils, tulips, and crocus for spring bloom. Work calcium and phosphorus into the soil below the bulbs at planting time.
     Divide peonies and iris.
     Clean houseplants, check for insects, and repot if necessary; then bring them indoors.
     Protect tomatoes and/or pick green tomatoes and ripen indoors if frost threatens.
     Use stakes to support tall flowers and to keep them from blowing over in fall winds.
     Bait for slugs with traps or iron phosphate products that are safe for use around pets.
     Dig, clean, and store tuberous begonias if frost threatens.
     Harvest potatoes when the tops die down. Store them in a dark location.
     Prepare compost pile for recycling vegetation from garden and deciduous trees. Do not compost diseased or insect-infested plant material.
     Western Oregon: plant winter cover of annual rye or winter peas.
     Copper spray for peach and cherry trees.
     Monitor trailing berries for leaf and cane spot. Treat if necessary.
     Spray for juniper twig blight after pruning away dead and infected twigs.
     Monitor arborvitae for Berckmann's blight. Spray if necessary.
     Coastal and western valleys: spray potatoes and tomatoes for early and late blight.
     Willamette Valley: allow your lawn to dry out in late summer to make it less attractive to egg-laying crane flies.


    Again, all recommendations in this calendar are not necessarily applicable to all areas of Oregon.

    For more information, contact your local office of the OSU Extension Service.
    To find the OSU extension service office nearest you, click on the following link: http://extension.oregonstate.edu/locations.php


     

  • Gardening calendar: August

    Tim Joyce, KOIN Local 6 Environmental Reporter

    August is the time that I try hardest to keep up with the garden. Summer heat in these dog days can wreak havoc on containers that don’t get daily watering and making sure one keeps up with taking on regular weeding and checking for fungal growth like powdery mildew can be daunting for someone like myself who still considers himself a somewhat novice gardener. Some of the harvest is already becoming clear. Some successes are already known—and many failures too for that matter. If the joy comes from being outside and in the elements—then neither should bother you too much. At my own house I’m watching the plums weigh down the branches and the peppers really starting to pop.

    This is the calendar from the Oregon State University Extension Service about what can/should be done in the month of August. It should be noted that OSU encourages research based sustainable gardening practices. Always identify and monitor problems before acting. First consider cultural controls; then physical, biological, and chemical controls (which include insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, botanical insecticides, organic and synthetic pesticides). And most paramount to this philosophy: always consider the least toxic approach first.

    All recommendations in this calendar are not necessarily applicable to all areas of Oregon. For more information, contact your local office of the OSU Extension Service.

    • Check apple maggot traps; spray tree if needed.
    • Make compost of lawn clippings and garden plants that are ready to be recycled. Do not use clippings if lawn has been treated with herbicide, including "weed-and-feed" products.
    • Control yellow jackets and wasps with traps and lures as necessary. Keep in mind they are beneficial insects and help control pest insects in the home garden.
    • First week: spray for walnut husk fly.
    • First week: second spray of peach and prune trees for root borers.
    • First week: second spray of filbert trees for filbertworm.
    • Check for root weevils in ornamental shrubs and flowers; codling moth and spider mite in apple trees; scale insects in camellias, holly, maples. Treat as necessary.
    • Plant winter cover crops in vacant space around the vegetable garden; plant winter kale, Brussels sprouts, turnips, parsnips, parsley, and Chinese cabbage.
    • Dampwood termites begin flying late this month. Make sure your home is free of wet wood or places where wood and soil are in contact.
    • Watch for corn earworm on early corn--treat as needed.
    • Begin soil preparation for planting new lawn.
    • Fertilize cucumbers, summer squash, and broccoli to maintain production while you continue harvesting.
    • Clean and fertilize strawberry beds.
    • Control caterpillars on leafy vegetables, as needed, with Bt., or by hand picking and removal.
    • For mite control on ornamentals and most vegetables, hose off foliage, spray with miticide if necessary.
    • Monitor garden irrigation closely so crops and ornamentals don't dry out.
    • Use mulch to protect ornamentals and garden plants from hot weather damage.
    • Camellias need deep watering to develop flower buds for next spring.
    • Prune raspberries, boysenberries, and other caneberries after harvest.
    • Willamette Valley: corn may need protection from earworm. Spray new silks with appropriate pesticides if necessary.
    • East of Cascades: check for tomato hornworm.
    • Mid-August to early September--fertilize lawn for last time this growing season.
    • Western Oregon: mid-summer planting of peas; use enation-virus-resistant varieties, plant fall crops of cabbage, cauliflower, and broccoli.
    • Oregon coast: plant spinach.
    • Western valleys, Portland, Roseburg, Medford: plant cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, spinach, turnips, and parsnips.
    • Columbia and Snake River valleys, Ontario: plant Chinese cabbage, and endive.
    • High elevations, central and eastern Oregon: prune away excess vegetation and new blossoms on tomatoes after mid-August. Concentrate on ripening set fruit.
    • Coastal and western valleys: spray potatoes and tomatoes for early and late blight.
    • Willamette Valley: allow your lawn to dry out in late summer to make it less attractive to egg-laying crane flies.
    Again, all recommendations in this calendar are not necessarily applicable to all areas of Oregon. For more information, contact your local office of the OSU Extension Service.
    To find the OSU extension service office nearest you, click on the following link: http://extension.oregonstate.edu/locations.php


  • Chickens Take Roost

    By Tim Joyce, KOIN Local 6 Environmental Reporter

    Add the Oregon coastal community of Cannon Beach to the list of communities rethinking the boundaries between which animals are pets—and which are livestock. The city council voted to change the city code recently to allow homeowners to keep up to four chickens (but no roosters) on their property.

    This is a growing trend in many communities, and not only in the Pacific Northwest. Exactly why is hard to say. There’s one argument for food security, as pet chickens can provide fresh eggs in a tight economic time. The economy is not the only reason for everyone—incredibly fresh eggs are supposedly of much higher quality when it comes to the taste. In very “foodie” Portland, that argument often holds even more sway. I have a feeling it’s a combination of several factors that cause people to give a very old idea a shot in modern times.

    This last weekend the non-profit Growing Gardens, of which I am a board member, wrapped up an annual event called “Tour de Coops”. This sixth year of the event featured nearly 20 of the coolest chicken digs around town. Record numbers of people bought guidebooks to attend. Chickens, it seems, are a hot topic these days.

    I jumped on this bandwagon, in spirit, when I bought my house in inner SE Portland two years ago. Part of the shed was built into a hen house—and the attached portion of the yard fenced off for an official chicken run. I fully expected to get chickens someday—just to give it a try. That someday turned out to be this summer.

    At first scouring the outer parts of the Portland metro at some feed and farm stores that shall remain nameless. The people working there were either not helpful or downright absent to any questions I had about how to get started. I read up on the care of chickens in “Keep Chickens: Tending small flocks in cities, suburbs, and other small spaces”. Coincidentally it’s by a Portland area author, named Barbara Kilarski. I also stumbled upon a gem of a store where I purchased my chicks a feed/farm/garden store—in the heart of urban SE Portland. Urban Farm is near the corner of SE 20th and Belmont, not where you’d expect the type of store that sells such things. Such is life though, as many of us know, in city that prides itself on keeping things weird. Urban Farm store had many different breeds of chickens that will lay eggs at different intensities at different times of the year—and the eggs will come in different colors and sizes as well.

    It has been roughly a month now with my new housemates. Chickens are a lot less work than I thought. They’re in what’s called a “brooder” which is a container (in my case an old 30 gallon fish tank) with a heat lamp on 24 hours a day to keep the little ones warm. I try to hold them once a day, but they seem skittish still around people. This might have something to do with them being in the busiest room in the house (the kitchen) and in a glass enclosure—where just about anything and everyone in the house that moves through there can freak them out. Oh well, live and learn.

    My primary delay in getting chickens was the dogs. I wanted the pups to be old enough to be commanded to not chase after the chickens. This is proving difficult—they are quite curious about the new additions. So, far no incidents—but this weekend I took the chickens out for most of the afternoon to their soon to be new digs just so they could scratch in the dirt and do chicken type things. The dogs watched in amazement at these little guys pecking and clawing at the ground. I don’t know if the dogs wanted to play with them or eat them.

    I am amazed at how fast they’re growing. The chicks are getting big and how quick the fuzzy little soft, adorable chicks are looking like slightly more menacing actual hens. Soon, it will be time to put them outside in the hen house all the time. I might have to run an extension cord to keep the heat lamp on there for the first few weeks outside. Come September, they should be old enough to start producing eggs. Some breeds will produce an egg a day. That really can add up. Neighbors have warned me that raccoons and other predators will really try and get at them. That means I’ll have to spend some time while they’re in the brooder further protecting the chicken run from potential predators. I have a giant roll of chicken wire and a staple gun to make that happen.

    I’m curious how this experiment will turn out. Will I find them more to be like curious avian pets? Will it feel like I’m some sort of nouveau urban farmer tending my flock? Will I be overwhelmed with fresh eggs? Will I be able to eat eggs that comes in browns and shades of green? I have no idea—but I’ll keep you posted.

  • Peak Oil Day

    By Tim Joyce, KOIN Local 6

     

    It’s hard to believe it now, but it was a year ago that the world was in a frenzy about oil. Yup, that black goop that is pumped out of the earth compressed and cooked organic matter from ancient sunlight eons and eons ago. Oil does more than fuel your car, it’s in plastics, fertilizers for food crops, medicines, perfumes, things like asphalt—there’s more than 4,000 uses according the Organization of Petroleum Exporting Countries, or OPEC. So, what’s the big deal about oil?

     

    Well, it was a year ago last week the price of a barrel of oil hit a record at $147.27 in daily trading on July 11th, 2008. That same month, world crude oil production achieved a record 74.8 million barrels a day. For years leading up to last July, a growing number of analysts and those with decades of experience in the oil business began arguing that world oil production would max out around the year 2010 due to geographic constraints like aging oil fields that had been tapped of the good stuff underground (called light sweet crude). Many economists, and I tend to agree with them, that the staggering price of oil triggered the bursting of the housing bubble and our current recession.

     

    Here’s the problem though. The world runs on oil. The recession caused the price of oil to fall. The “credit crunch” made many producers to put many investments for new oil fields on hold—an estimated 150 billion dollars worth of investment. It will take some real magic to get back to those record production numbers from 12 months ago. So, where does an oil thirsty planet do when demand goes back up again? Quite a few in the oil services industry believe that all of those stalled projects will have to be brought on line again as soon as the economy turns around to keep the price of oil from hitting the stratosphere. The talk from at least one Canadian analyst is a forecasted 200 dollars a barrel. This could crush a recovering economy. I assure you, the rollercoaster of oil boom and bust would be ugly-- and take few prisoners.

     

    Part of a growing group of people from all walks of life is recognizing what’s come to be known as “Peak Oil”. Peak oil doesn’t mean we’re running out of oil, it just means that it’s a finite resource and we’ll have less and less of it as time goes on. Many communities, including Portland, have created Peak Oil Task Forces to deal with the possibilities of a world without as much oil as we’re used to using. One of the preeminent writers in this movement with a book called The Party’s Over, Richard Heinberg, suggests that we name July 11th “Peak Oil Day”. He says it might be a stretch to say that the production peak occurred at one identifiable moment, and I agree. Heinberg says attributing it to the day oil prices reached their high-point so far could be useful in fixing the event in our minds. Heinberg and authors like James Howard Kunstler say that we’re in an entirely new economic environment whether we like it or not. They say old assumptions about the inevitability of perpetual growth are bad assumptions to make. Shrink the supply of oil (whether due to geographic or economic issues)—you raise the prices.

     

    The way to shield yourself from higher energy prices: learn to use less. Europeans use much less energy than Americans do, and have a similar (if not better some argue) quality of life. So, what to do to celebrate Peak Oil Day? Practice. Practice not using as much energy- it’s actually easier than you might think. I know because I’ve done it. Go on a hike, shop for a bicycle, do a 24-hour oil fast, maybe teach yourself to make a cake with a solar cooker, or just work in your garden.

               

    Down the road, the wallet you save might be your own.

     

    For more information:

    Richard Heinberg explains Peak Oil: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6uYmZmWAaxk

    City of Portland: Peak Oil Task Force Final Report

    http://www.portlandonline.com/bps/index.cfm?a=145732&c=42894

    Portland Peak Oil group

    http://www.portlandpeakoil.org

     

     

     

  • Gardening calendar: July

    Gardening calendar: July

    July is the time that I try to acknowledge in the garden. Summer is fully upon us here in the Northwest, and every year at this time I can quickly find myself overwhelmed with much more to do than I have time for. While I still haven’t found a way to overcome this entirely, I have come upon the simple method of making a list of tasks and making sure I execute them. It seems everything this time of year demands immediate attention: weeding, mowing, harvesting. I try to make a conscious effort to slow myself down to enjoy the process of growing and just being outside—so I hope you can too.

    This is the calendar from the Oregon State University Extension Service about what can/should be done in the month of May. It should be noted that OSU encourages research based sustainable gardening practices. Always identify and monitor problems before acting. First consider cultural controls; then physical, biological, and chemical controls (which include insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, botanical insecticides, organic and synthetic pesticides). And most paramount to this philosophy: always consider the least toxic approach first.

    All recommendations in this calendar are not necessarily applicable to all areas of Oregon. For more information, contact your local office of the OSU Extension Service.

    • Control hollyhock rust by sanitation, picking affected leaves, or spraying with a recommended and registered fungicide. Read and follow label directions.
    • Early morning is the best time to water vegetable and flower gardens to reduce evaporation. Water deeply and infrequently.
    • Hanging baskets of flowers or vegetable plantings need careful attention to watering and feeding during extended periods of hot weather.
    • Watch for cutworm damage in garden. (In July, climbing cutworms become a problem and large portions of foliage will begin to disappear on established plants.) Use barriers, remove by hand, use beneficial nematodes when soil temperature is above 55°F, or spray with Bt according to label directions.
    • Midsummer plantings of beets, bush beans, carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, lettuce, kale, and peas will provide fall and winter crops.
    • Place traps to catch adult apple maggot flies. You can use pheromone traps to monitor presence of pests.
    • July 10: spray filbert trees for filbertworm.
    • July 10-15: spray peach and prune trees for root borers.
    • July 17-23: third spray for codling moth in apple and pear trees.
    • Cover blueberry bushes with netting to keep birds from eating all the crop.
    • Stake tomatoes, watch for blight (prune for air circulation, pick off affected leaves, treat with approved fungicide).
    • First planting of Chinese cabbage, kohlrabi, rutabagas on Oregon coast.
    • Monitor camellias, holly, maple trees for scale insects. Treat if necessary.
    • Monitor rhododendrons for root weevil adults. Look for fresh evidence of feeding (notching). Try sticky trap products on plant trunks to trap adult weevils.
    • Check leafy vegetables for caterpillars. Control with Bt or Sevin. Never use Sevin during bloom period or in the presence of bees.
    • Mound soil up around base of potatoes, gather and eat a few "new" potatoes from each hill.
    • Weed and fertilize rhubarb and asparagus beds, water deeply to develop crowns for next year. A mulch of compost or rotted cow manure works well.
    • Mulch to conserve soil moisture with paper, plastic, sawdust, etc.
    • Spider mites can become a problem on ornamental plants, vegetables, and fruit plants during hot, dry weather. Watch for dusty-looking foliage, loss of color, presence of tiny mites. Wash infested areas with water or spray with appropriate pesticides.
    • Dig spring bulbs when tops have died down; divide and store or replant.
    • If a green lawn is desired, make sure lawn areas are receiving adequate water. Deep watering less often is more effective than frequent shallow watering.
    • Stake tall-growing flowering plants such as delphinium, hollyhocks, and lupine.
    • Aerate lawns for more effective water and fertilizer usage.
    • East of the Cascades: spray for corn earworm as silking begins. Protect bees from spray.

    All recommendations in this calendar are not necessarily applicable to all areas of Oregon. For more information, contact your local office of the OSU Extension Service.

    To find the OSU extension service office nearest you, click on the following link: http://extension.oregonstate.edu/locations.php

     

     

  • June: Garden Calendar

    June: Garden Calendar. By Tim Joyce
    KOIN Local 6 Environmental Reporter

    June is a time for rejuvenation. This year, we have seen May end on an unseasonably warm note— hopefully accelerating the plants and our productivity in the garden. The month of solstice has the longest evenings we’ll see all year. Time to enjoy life and the great splendor of the outdoors. This is the calendar from the Oregon State University Extension Service about what can/should be done in the month of June. It should be noted that OSU encourages research based sustainable gardening practices. Always identify and monitor problems before acting. First consider cultural controls; then physical, biological, and chemical controls (which include insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, botanical insecticides, organic and synthetic pesticides). And most paramount to this philosophy: always consider the least toxic approach first. All recommendations in this calendar are not necessarily applicable to all areas of Oregon. For more information, contact your local office of the OSU Extension Service.

    1.   First week: spray cherry trees for cherry fruit fly and brown rot if fruit is ripening.
    2.   First week: spray for codling moth and scab in apple and pear trees. Continue use of pheromone traps for insect pest detection.
    3.   Apples and crabapples that are susceptible to scab disease will begin dropping leaves as weather warms. Rake and destroy fallen leaves; spray with summer-strength lime sulfur, wettable sulfur, Immunox, or Captan.
    4.   Plant insectory plants to attract beneficial insects to your garden. Check with local nurseries for best selections.
    5.   Plant dahlias and gladioli.
    6.   Learn to identify beneficial insects and plant some insectory plants (Alyssum, Phacelia, coriander, candytuft, sunflower, yarrow, dill) to attract them to your garden. Check with local nurseries for best selections.
    7.   Lawn mowing: set blade at 0.75 to 1 inch for bentgrass lawns; 1.5 to 2.5 inches for bluegrasses, fine fescues, and ryegrasses.
    8.   Spray with Orthene to control adult root weevils in rhododendrons, azaleas, primroses, and other ornamentals. Or, use beneficial nematodes if soil temperature is above 55°F.
    9.   Remove seed pods after blooms have dropped from rhododendrons, azaleas.
    10. Prune lilacs, forsythia, rhododendrons, and azaleas after blooming.
    11. Fertilize vegetable garden 1 month after plants emerge by side dressing-alongside the rows.
    12.  Harvest thinnings from new plantings of lettuce, onion, and chard.
    13.  Construct trellises for tomatoes, cucumbers, pole beans, and vining ornamentals.
    14.  Use organic mulches to conserve soil moisture. An inch or two of sawdust, barkdust, or composted leaves will minimize loss of water through evaporation.
    15.  Pick ripe strawberries regularly to avoid fruit-rotting diseases.
    16.  Blossoms on squash and cucumbers begin to drop: nothing to worry about.
    17.  Control garden weeds by pulling, hoeing, or mulching.
    18.  Control aphids on vegetables as needed by hosing off with water or by using insecticidal soap or a registered insecticide.
    19.  Watch for cabbage worms, 12-spotted beetles on beans and lettuce, flea beetles in lettuce. Remove the insect pests or treat with labeled pesticides.
    20.  Spray peas as first pods form, if necessary, to control weevils.
    21.  After normal fruit drop in June, consider thinning the remainder to produce a larger crop of fruit.
    22.  Late this month, begin to monitor for late blight on tomatoes.
    23.  Birch trees dripping means aphids are present. Control as needed.
    24.  If indicated, spray cherries at weekly intervals for fruit fly.
    25.  Last week: second spray for codling moth and scab in apple and pear trees.
    26.  Move houseplants outside for cleaning, grooming, repotting, and summer growth.
    27.  Make sure raised beds receive enough water for plants to stay free of drought stress.
    28.  High elevations, central and eastern Oregon: fertilize lawns, late June to early July.
    29.  Oregon coast: plant cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage, kale.
    30.  Western Oregon: plant sweet corn, other tender vegetables.
    31.  Western Oregon: apply fertilizer to lawns.

    All recommendations in this calendar are not necessarily applicable to all areas of Oregon. For more information, contact your local office of the OSU Extension Service. To find the OSU extension service office nearest you, click on the following link: http://extension.oregonstate.edu/locations.php

  • Taking Sides in the Transportation Debate: The Rational Side

    A fiery debate has erupted back east—but Portland’s good name is being tarnished in the mudslinging. The issue is something that Portlanders would yawn at, most likely: having options for transportation. Newsweek Columnist George F. Will penned a very critical column this week about U.S. Transportation Secretary Ray Lahood. Will called him the "Secretary of Behavior Modification" for his support of things like streetcars and bike paths. You can read the column here: http://www.newsweek.com/id/197925

    Not to be outdone, one of Portland’s own representative in Congress, Earl Blumenauer, called Will out for his negativity and narrow-mindedness and even referred in a news conference about holding the “weasels” accountable. (You can read his response here: http://blumenauer.house.gov/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=1493&Itemid=1) Blumenauer challenged Will to get off his high horse and come visit the Rose City, write about what he experiences, and debate about it here with the Congressman. The Oregon Democrat who wears a tiny bicycle as a lapel pin (along with his signature bowtie) also offered to pay for George Will’s plane ticket from his sheltered life inside Washington’s beltway to Portland and buy him a bottle of Oregon pinot noir.

    Let’s put any arguments I might have on the basis of climate change and peak oil (http://www.peakoil.com) aside for a moment—I want to boil down this conflict into its basic elements. The status quo versus something different. The “status quo” has put federal dollars for the last several decades into building an interstate highway system that puts ribbons of freeway across all 50 states and has improved the movement of goods and people in a way never before seen in human history. But, this had consequences as well. Hundreds of thousands of acres of some of the best farmland close to our cities were paved over for strip malls and subdivisions. The convenience of the car also killed many good things in our nation among the tops on my list: walk-able neighborhoods. And people who couldn’t afford a car (or the gasoline/insurance/maintenance to run it) were simply left in the dust as streetcar tracks in cities around the country were ripped up in the 1920s and 30s.

    “Something different” is the Portland model of smart growth, limiting sprawl, keeping farmland for farmers, mass transit, bicycle lanes, maintaining a vital downtown almost 24 hours a day. It’s the kind of intelligent planning for decades that according to Representative Blumenauer is now getting younger well-educated people to move here (even without jobs)-- and causing older, well-established professional people to stay here despite higher paying options in other places. That sounds like a formula for an urban area that’s working. It should merit some curiosity, perhaps, but not outright scorn from the Newsweek columnist.

    Mr. Will asserts that Americans will never bike to work in any large numbers and compared the controlled growth of Portland as cancerous with his use of the term “metastasize”. I can assert from my own experience that I never thought I would bike to work until I realized how easy it was. I think for a lot of people the reason they try something new or different is that they can. No one in Portland city government ordered me to sell my car and get around on other methods of transit. I decided to do that myself after trying many different ways of getting transporting myself. How do I get to work? However I want to, it's my freedom of choice. It’s only a couple of miles—so it honestly depends on the day. I have walked, bicycled, taken the bus, my scooter, a ZipCar (http://www.zipcar.com), carpooled with a friend, and in the past—drove my own car. Needless to say in many cities—people don’t have many or any choices-- let alone all of the options a Portlander does. We don’t know how many people would bike to work, Mr. Will, since our entire infrastructure for the last half century forces them to drive.

    George F. Will assumes that Secretary Lahood is not being a genuine Republican by him opening up his mind to ideas that don't involve automobiles. I have to disagree. While I am a registered independent now—back when I was a member of the Republican Party—I was drawn to it because it was the idea that the G.O.P. was the party of fiscal responsibility, the party of smaller government and most paramount: the party of freedom and liberty. Under George F. Will’s kind of reality, the federal government wouldn’t fund things like light rail, safe bike paths and lanes, or streetcars. I would have one option: driving everywhere.

    It seems like giving people choices is the American way. So, feel free to get in your car, Mr. Will, that’s your prerogative in a free country. Just don’t tell me how get around, though. I’ll continue to get around Portland style—which means almost all of the options are on the table, nearly all of the time. I will also continue to support the politicians and ballot initiatives that make our more sensible, sustainable, and liberating Portland way of life possible.

     

     

  • Reflections on Hating Earth Day 2009

    By Tim Joyce, KOIN Local 6 Environmental Reporter

                I used to overhear my grandmother deride people who only went to church on Christmas Eve and Easter. I don’t remember the exact term, but it was something like “fair-weather Catholics”. My grandfather would retort that it’s better them be “fair-weather Catholics” than not go to church at all.

    That comes to mind to me this Earth Day for some reason. It might be because I was sick and at home this week. I was bombarded in every medium from television to radio to Facebook. The shows themselves to the ads in between-- everything had a “green” hook. Some of the more appalling of them was a Sesame Street character selling kids on being green in a special DVD. It was wrapped in plastic and surrounded by a completely un-needed cardboard sleeve.

                It’s such a far cry from when Earth Day started in the late 1960s. Millions marched in rallies to get the government of the people to act to stop rampant, toxic and obvious pollution. It was a fierce grassroots effort and a political force to be reckoned with. The problems were easy to see: billowing smokestacks, rivers that caught on fire, Lake Erie declared dead, an oil spill off the Santa Barbara coast closing all the beaches in Southern California for a long spell, municipal and industrial waste that poured into waterways unchecked. I wouldn’t say it was easy to fix, as that would insult the work of so many dedicated people of the day. I will say it was the easier problem to fix. Laws were passed, the EPA created, many of the most egregious business practices changed. It was much needed work and we are better off for it. But, it means the tasks that lie before this generation are the ones that are harder to tackle.

                Now the problem is harder to fix, because it is all of us. We are all polluters. We are all the problem now. As a species: we consume too much, drive too frequently, use pesticides far too generously, eat food from too far away, use too many resources, generate too much trash, recycle too little, have too many children, waste too much energy, and we care a whole lot less.

                It’s not surprising; the second half of this environmental movement is something that’s going to be the harder half of the battle. Because it requires each of us to do things like re-tool our thinking and make actual changes in our behavior. Not just for Earth Day- forever. And it’s more than changing a few light bulbs. This is not always enjoyable. This is not always inexpensive. But, it is most certainly necessary. And the planet isn’t really what’s on the line- we are.

                Putting aside just a single to day to remind ourselves to do things “for the planet” seems ridiculously underwhelming and out of date. With all the mounting environmental problems we are facing—it seems like every day should be Earth Day—and we’ll set aside a day for conspicuous consumption.

                I’ll admit there’s a certain level of jadedness on this Earth Day which I can only fathom comes from actually paying attention to our deteriorating planetary condition. And while I’m reminded of my grandmother who chastised others privately for something less than her own level of dedication, I can hear my grandfather’s voice saying its better they’re an environmentalist for a day than not at all.

  • Gardening calendar: April

    Gardening calendar: April

    April is the time I try to evolve. The re-birth of spring is fully upon us here in the Northwest, and every year at this time I try to push myself to be a better gardener than I was the year before. This involves taking note of the lessons learned from last season and applying them to efforts this time around. Mistakes, I have found, can be more educational than successes. 

    This is the calendar from the Oregon State University Extension Service about what can/should be done in the month of April. It should be noted that OSU encourages research based sustainable gardening practices. Always identify and monitor problems before acting. First consider cultural controls; then physical, biological, and chemical controls (which include insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, botanical insecticides, organic and synthetic pesticides). And most paramount to this philosophy: always consider the least toxic approach first.

    • Early April: fertilize lawn, let spring rains carry the fertilizer into the soil.
    • If lawns are becoming thin and sickly, consider overseeding with a mixture of perennial ryegrass and fine fescue.
    • Protect dogwood trees, as they begin growth, against anthracnose diseases. Apply a copper fungicide or Daconil. Rake and destroy fallen leaves spring through fall.
    • Help youngsters start a garden this year with carrots, chard, lettuce, onions, and peas.
    • Bait for slugs; iron phosphate baits are available that are safe for use around pets. Clean up hiding places for slugs, sowbugs, and millipedes.
    • Allow foliage of spring-flowering bulbs to brown and die down before removing.
    • Prune and shape or thin spring-blooming shrubs and trees after blossoms fade.
    • Control rose diseases such as black spot and powdery mildew. Remove infected leaves. Spray as necessary with registered fungicide. Prune ornamentals for air circulation and to help prevent fungus diseases.
    • Prepare garden soil for spring planting. Incorporate generous amounts of organic materials and other amendments as needs are shown by soil analysis.
    • Plant early broccoli varieties for western Oregon: Green Valiant, Premium Crop, Packman, or Rosalind.
    • Use floating row covers to keep insects such as beet leaf miners, cabbage maggot adult flies, and carrot rust flies away from susceptible crops.
    • Monitor strawberries for spittlebugs and aphids; control if present.
    • Cut and remove weeds near the garden to remove sources of plant virus diseases.
    • Spray for apple scab, cherry brown rot, and blossom blight. See EC 631, Controlling Diseases and Insects in Home Orchards.
    • Apply commercial fertilizers, manure, or compost to cane, bush (gooseberries, currants, and blueberries), and trailing berries.
    • Plant gladioli, hardy transplants of alyssum, phlox, and marigolds, if weather and soil conditions permit.
    • Prepare raised beds in areas where cold soils and poor drainage are a continuing problem. Add generous amounts of organic materials.
    • Place compost or well decomposed manure around perennial vegetable plants.
    • Watch for botrytis blight on peonies.
    • Check started seeds for damping-off.
    • Cover transplants to protect against late spring frosts.
    • Plant these vegetables:
      Oregon coast: beets, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, chard, slicing cucumbers, endive, leeks, lettuce, onion sets, peas, potatoes.
      Western valleys, Portland: broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, chard, chives, endive, leeks, lettuce, peas, radishes, rhubarb, rutabagas, spinach, turnips.
      Central Oregon and higher elevations of eastern Oregon (late April): peas, radishes, lettuce, spinach, turnips.
      Columbia valleys/gorge: snap and lima beans, beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, chard, chives, sweet corn, slicing and pickling cucumbers, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, onion sets, parsnips, peas, potatoes, pumpkins, radishes, rhubarb, rutabagas, summer and winter squash, turnips.

    All recommendations in this calendar are not necessarily applicable to all areas of Oregon. For more information, contact your local office of the OSU Extension Service.

    To find the OSU extension service office nearest you, click on the following link: http://extension.oregonstate.edu/locations.php

     

     

  • Life Without Car: One Year and Counting…

    Life Without Car: One Year and Counting…

    By Tim Joyce, KOIN Local 6 Environmental Reporter

     

                It’s hard to look back on my year without a personal car and think about any significant hardships or difficulties. In fact, it’s kind of hard to believe that it’s been a whole year since I sold my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe. There are several things I can attribute my positive experience to several things: smart choices, Tri-Met, ZipCar, and my scooter.

                Choices. The smart choices involved things that I decided about how I wanted to live my life. When I purchased a home in 2007, I chose a smaller home closer in to Portland’s city center. I prioritized a walkable neighborhood over things like a giant backyard and square footage. A walking neighborhood has things like a grocery store, dry cleaners, taverns, coffee shop, park, etc. (If you’d like to know how “walkable” your neighborhood is- you can check out this website: http://www.walkscore.com). Another big choice was to live close to where I work and socialize- that can make a huge impact on how much time you spend getting places. If you live where you already want to be—life can be much easier. Now, these choices don’t work for everyone—and they are not possible in many cities around the United States. But, this was another conscious choice of mine: choosing to live in Portland.

                TriMet. Just because I’m living without a car- doesn’t mean that I don’t still want to get places. The Portland metro area transit district does a great job of moving people around. When I bought my house, I researched to find out which and how many bus lines were close to my home, where they went, and how long it took to get there. I also looked up which mass transit projects were in the works for my area—and purchased near where a brand new MAX light rail line is going in within the next five years. There are two amazing features that make Tri-Met (http://www.trimet.org) very user friendly. The trip planner allows you to input addresses or landmarks to plot out a route and timing to get you where you want to go. The transit tracker actually tracks real-time arrivals of buses and trains at any stop whether it’s the one near your house or near your favorite sports bar.

                ZipCar.  I had a co-worker ask me last fall about what it’s like to live without a car. And I didn’t really get the question—because I realized that while I was living “car free”—I was never without a car. ZipCar (http://www.zipcar.com) is an international car co-operative. There are vehicles waiting to be used all over Portland. There are about three within a short walk from my home in inner Southeast Portland. Signing up for ZipCar costs about 30 bucks for the year. With my plan, I only pay for the hours that I use a car. It’s about ten bucks an hour: gas and insurance is included. Luckily, it’s more than just cars. A ZipCar pick up truck helped me haul 14,000 pounds of sand, gravel and paving stones for a patio project in my backyard.

                Scooter.  My scooter was a purchase I was reluctant to make, but I’m so glad I did. In June, I purchased a KYMCO People 150. Let’s face it. There are places that are too far, neighborhoods that are too hilly, or days when I’m just too lazy to ride my bicycle. It cost almost four thousand dollars to buy the scooter, winter, rain, and safety gear. It gets about 60-70 miles to the gallon and can go fast enough to ride on the freeway- although it’s something I avoid doing almost all the time. With relatives in Vancouver, Washington- that’s one reason I got a scooter with enough power to keep up with traffic on either of the freeway bridges over the Columbia River.  When gas was 4 dollars a gallon last summer, I could fill up with a five dollar bill and get change back.

                $$$ Savings.  One thing people ask me about was cost savings associated with getting rid of my car. Honestly, it’s something I didn’t really think of until I started writing this blog entry. No car payments meant a savings of about $3000. In part of preparing for a life without a personal car, I only filled up once a month to think about using my trips efficiently. So, I’d estimate fuel savings at about $600. Insurance savings were also significant. For my car, insurance was about 500 bucks twice a year. Scooter insurance runs about 100 for a whole year. There’s also maintenance and wear and tear issues too which do add up. So I’d estimate another 500 to 1000 dollars in that column. Given the fact that I used ZipCar to get to some weddings out of town and a weekend at the coast, I’d say I still saved about 4 or 5 thousand dollars last year.

                Pitfalls.  I’ll be the first to admit it: having a personal vehicle you can use at your whim makes life easier. Traffic can be awful and parking can be worse, but being able to go where you want to go whenever you want is a nice luxury. Portland is also a wonderful place where we live close to some pretty amazing natural wonders. It would be nice to be able to jump into a car and see Multnomah Falls or go whale watching at the Oregon Coast. But, I found that I didn’t do that all often when I had a car at my disposal—I just liked the idea of going on that hike in the Gorge whenever I felt like it.

    The December snow posed some problems. Waiting for a bus for many minutes in the cold was not fun. But, being from Chicago, I’m well aware that if you dress for the frozen weather- it’s not that big of a deal. Cabs are also a nice amenity in the snow. They’ve already got chains on and any slipping and sliding accidents are their insurance headaches, not mine.

    I also had gotten really good at something called “trip chaining” which is when you line up several errands to do with one well-planned out trip. It’s how UPS and FedEx do their routes—but on a personal scale. It’s harder to do on a scooter or bike—but not impossible. It does limit the amount one can carry. But, I’ve surprised myself a the amount of stuff I can carry on my scooter, including about a hundred pounds of raw Columbia River salmon that I gutted and cleaned later in the backyard. Grocery store trips are more frequent, but I’d describe them as more European for lack of a better term. Going more frequently for more fresh products and doing it on the way home from somewhere else anyhow.

    The one thing that I repeatedly did miss was being able to take the dogs to their (and my) favorite dog park which is all the way across town. I also missed visiting friends who were just far out enough away from a bus or MAX line to make a trip to see them incredibly difficult.

    Changing my mind.  One thing that I really became aware of was my change in mentality in the last year. There were seeds of this before, of course. I think about distance now; I think about it a lot. I think about how far a mile is: it takes 60 seconds in the car on the freeway; it takes a whole lot longer if you’re walking it along the shoulder. Hillsboro and Happy Valley seem so much farther now. The Oregon Coast seems an ocean away based on the spotty shuttle bus schedule that would get me to there (yes, there’s bus service to the Coast).  I’ve been to Seattle and Eugene via train—which is much more reliable and frequent and makes them feel closer.

    And while parts of the world have gotten bigger-- what’s also funny is that my neighborhood seems to have gotten so much smaller. Things that I thought were car trips are easily done on bicycle. Things I thought were bike trips are not that much of a hassle just walking. Visiting one of my favorite wine bars in Southeast Portland, I’ve discovered is only about a 20 minute walk. Getting to work on a beautiful autumn day last year took about 40 minutes on foot. Mental barriers like the railroad tracks that mark the north end of my neighborhood or the Willamette River now don’t seem such a big barrier anymore. It’s been an interesting year without a car. I’ve learned more about myself and much more about my world around me. It’s made me really appreciate the car- and how easy it can make things. But, I also really recognize there’s a cost that being in that metal box can dull your senses to sights and sounds and surroundings.

    My family was making predictions around New Year’s about things that would happen in 2009. My Uncle Terry predicted that I’ll break down and get a car this year. It was a night I braved some freezing temperatures on a very frosty scooter ride over the I-205 Bridge to get to his house in Vancouver. My facemask on my helmet was getting icy from my own breath that dark January evening. Not a pleasant trip—but not awful either. Looking back, I should have taken him up on that bet, because I honestly don’t think I’ll be buying a car this year.

    So, one year and counting-- this car-free experiment continues indefinitely. -tj

  • Life Without Car: A Look Back

    Life Without Car: A Look Back           

    By Tim Joyce, KOIN Local 6 Environmental Reporter

     

                I looked back in my personal blog archive to unearth this missive from March of 2008. I wrote it the day I sold my personal car. It’s provides some insight into my brain when I got rid of it.

    - - - - - -

    Well, I did it.

    I am without an automobile (again).

    The last time I lived without an automobile I had just finished my sophomore year of college. Gas cost about 95 cents a gallon-- and crude oil was about 19 dollars a barrel. I had just obtained the highly coveted job of Resident Assistant. RAs get free room and board, dirt cheap in-state tuition, and a stipend (at the time) of $82.50 a month. This made my annual college cost go from about 12,000 dollars a year to about 1,200 dollars a year. So, my dad got me a car while I was home for a shortened summer break. It was 1993-- and I have had a car pretty much every day since then-- until today.

    Things are far apart on the west coast and the idea that there is need for your own car is very powerful perception to overcome. There is a strong identification that car = independence. It is an idea that infected me quite thoroughly for many years. With the exception of my friend Adrian's powerfully convincing argument that you need a car to be able to escape a zombie invasion-- most of the reasons for every person to have their own car just don't hold up for someone like me. I am healthy, I live close to work, I work downtown, I live in a city that has pretty good mass transit, I have a member of a shared vehicle service (ZipCar), I own a bicycle and I am not afraid to use it. Almost all of these are conscious choices I have made in the past few years-- so we'll see how it works out.  

    So, while I've been trying to live without a car since last October-- today it starts for real. Most listings for this vehicle range from 12-15 thousand dollars. At the time I bought it two years ago used for 13,500. So, my first (optimistic) listing was for 11k, but no takers. The second one was for 10,500-- and at the time I almost sold it to a co-worker who had me get it detailed for his wife. I was going to sell it to him for 8k-- but she didn't like that it was a stick shift.  Monday, I dropped the price slightly to 9,500 dollars-- which did the trick. Five calls/emails from interested parties. The first person to look at it was the one who bought it.

    Turns out her and her partner were a one car household until they had a car accident and it was totaled. They loved the Hyundai Santa Fe and were looking specifically for this model. The gal today just got a new job as a teacher at a charter school and she was very excited to have found the vehicle.

    I only owed 3,900 bucks on the car-- so I walk away with a nice pocket of change for the transaction. Goodbye to my 250 dollar car payment too! This gal gets a great deal on a good car-- we're both happy. Bonus: I called my insurance company to cancel the policy-- turns out they're sending me a check for 373 dollars as a refund for not finishing out the policy.

    Now the real adventure begins. I am without a car for the first time in 15 years. Let's hope there are no zombie invasions.

     

  • Fork this!

    By Tim Joyce KOIN Local 6 Environmental Reporter

    Voting is an important part of our society. It is a way to enact change and have a voice in how the world works. Sometimes I think that people forget (or don’t realize) that we are part of a capitalist society as well. Capitalism is a type of economy; Democracy is a type of government. Every time you whip out that debit card, write a check, shell out a single dollar in a capitalist society—you’re voting. You’re voting just as surely as you do when you fill out your ballot for City Council, School Board Member or President of the United States. This major difference is that you likely spend money every day, so it seems that it is routine and almost unimportant. But, I would argue that when you spend your hard-earned cash—it’s almost more important than turning in your ballot on Election Day. Whether you know it or not-- with every dollar you spend, you’re saying something about how the world works. It can say you approve of a company when you buy their products. It can say you value your local economy. It can say you value your environment. It can say you approve of certain business practices when you use a service. Voting with your dollar can say more than you might realize.

                I was reminded about this when I stumbled across the new campaign from the Oregon Environmental Council or OEC. They’re enacting a “Fork! Pledge” drive. They have ten little things that you can do to make the world a little greener, improve your local economy, and vote with how you spend your money. Every dollar counts in tough economic times. Spending consciously and spending locally can make a huge difference, because it’s something you do every day. In Portland, it is easier than in most other locales too.

    Topping the Oregon Environmental Council’s list is something that to me is the easiest thing to do: support a local farmer. This can mean something as easy as shopping at a farmer’s market, as there are many that will be popping up very soon all around Portland. Another more intense way is something I did last year, joining a CSA. CSA stands for Community Supported Agriculture. It’s like a farm co-op. You pay in up front and get a share of the crop that is produced. It’s a bit of money up front but it’s a steady stream of local, incredibly fresh, seasonal fruits and vegetables into your kitchen all summer and most of the fall. According to the OEC, when you buy directly from a farmer your entire food dollar goes to the farmer and remains in the local economy.

    You can also grow your own food with an organic herb and vegetable garden. Success breeds success. The OEC recommends you start with kitchen herbs, tomatoes (which it’s still much too cold for) or sugar snap peas. They say you can’t get more local than your back yard, container on your balcony or your community garden.

    The OEC list also includes eating less meat. They say that substituting a vegetarian meal one day a week is equivalent to driving 1,000 fewer miles per year (roughly Portland to Los Angeles) when it comes to your carbon footprint and benefits your health. Vegetarian dishes are delicious and pretty easy to make. Most Italian dishes and Indian food are or can be easily made vegetarian. I’ve considered myself a “flex-itarian” now for some time, which means I lean towards vegetarian options on menus in restaurants. When I eat meat I choose fish or chicken over beef- and I make my portions more European where the cuts of meat are smaller compared to those of the vegetables or salad on the plate. 

    Cooking meals from scratch is also something you can do. The OEC recommends using ingredients your great-grandmother would recognize as food. Fresh whole foods with minimal processing and packaging are energy efficient, use fewer chemicals and create less waste. All of those things are good for you and good for the planet.

    These suggestions are just a few on their list. What’s important to realize you don’t have to turn your whole life around to give their suggestions a whirl. The OEC on their top ten just challenges us to just make one tweaking in your eating habits this month. I am always up for challenging myself to grow and try new things— it can and in some cases has made me a healthier, better version of myself. Some I might like, some wont work out so well—and that can be part of the fun.

    But for all of us, change has a beginning. It begins with you voting with your  dollar—and I guess sometimes with your fork too.

    If you’d like more information and their full list of challenges, you can check out their website: http://www.oeconline.org/fork  

     


  • March: Garden Calendar

    By Tim Joyce, KOIN Local 6 Environmental Reporter

    March is a time to resume. We are teased in the Pacific Northwest with longer days, but still the threat of frost. It’s time for planning still,  not quite planting. With the longer evenings, one can really get out there are resume life and enjoyment outdoors. The buds on some magnolia trees and rhodie bushes are looking more and more plump.

    This is the calendar from the Oregon State University Extension Service about what can/should be done in the month of March. It should be noted that OSU encourages research based sustainable gardening practices. Always identify and monitor problems before acting. First consider cultural controls; then physical, biological, and chemical controls (which include insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, botanical insecticides, organic and synthetic pesticides). And most paramount to this philosophy: always consider the least toxic approach first.

    All recommendations in this calendar are not necessarily applicable to all areas of Oregon. For more information, contact your local office of the OSU Extension Service.

    • Western Oregon: If soil is dry enough, begin vegetable garden soil preparation and plant cool- season crops (peas, lettuce, cabbage, onions, kale, chard).
    • Central Oregon: Plant seed flats of cole crops (cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts).
    • Central Oregon: Plant chard.
    • Divide hosta, daylilies, and mums.
    • Plan and plant an edible landscape or flower bed.
    • If you lack in-ground gardening space, plan a container garden: grow radishes, carrots, lettuce, and tomatoes (during the warm season).
    • Fertilize evergreen shrubs and trees.
    • Monitor landscape plants for problems. Do not treat unless a problem is identified.
    • If necessary, treat crowns of raspberry plants with registered insecticides to control raspberry cane borer.
    • Western Oregon: Plant berry crops (strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, blackberries, currants, gooseberries, and other berry-producing crop plants). See OSU Extension publications for varieties.
    • Western Oregon: Fertilize caneberries (broadcast or band a complete fertilizer or manure).
    • Prune gooseberries and currants; fertilize with manure or a complete fertilizer.
    • Spray trees and shrubs for webworms and leafrollers, if present.
    • Western Oregon: Take geraniums, begonias, and fuchsias from storage. Water and fertilize. Cut back if necessary. Move outdoors next month.
    • Fertilize rhododendrons, camellias, azaleas with acid-type fertilizer.
    • Spray to control leaf and twig fungus diseases in sycamore, hawthorn, and willow trees.
    • Use stored scion wood to graft fruit and ornamental trees.
    • Treat lawns for European crane fly if damage has been diagnosed.
    • Spread compost over garden and landscape areas.
    • Western Oregon: Best time of year to thatch and renovate lawns.
    • Plan the vegetable garden carefully for spring, summer, and fall vegetables that can be eaten fresh or preserved.
    • Learn to identify the predatory insects that can help to keep aphids and other pests under control.
    • Protect new plant growth from slugs. Use bait or traps.
    • Western Oregon: Prune spring-flowering shrubs after blossoms fade.
    • Trim or shear heather when bloom period is finished.
    • Start tuberous begonias indoors.
    • Plant insectary plants to attract beneficial insects to the garden.
    • Do not compost grass clippings from lawns where weed-and-feed products or herbicides have been used.

    All recommendations in this calendar are not necessarily applicable to all areas of Oregon. For more information, contact your local office of the OSU Extension Service.

    To find the OSU extension service office nearest you, click on the following link: http://extension.oregonstate.edu/locations.php

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